Just a quick question. I am fairly new to tuning cars. I know a lot a bout diesel pickup tuning but we are talking apples to oranges. I use my accord for daily driving and really just want to throw on some bolt ons to make it a little sportier. What are some good bolt ons. I've thrown a short ram intake on it and straight piped out the cat. I've been looking at the apexi systems and wonder are they worth it. also I was wondering if a new fuel rail mated with 421 headers would help with the low end on my 4cyl NA motor. also do they make a throttle body spacer for my car. I know that is a lot to ask but I sure would appreciate the feedback  

I'll help, but you're a bit misguided in some facts. First off replace the Cat, or get a High Flow one. The environment is F'ed up as it is for petty power... An aftermarket fuel rail won't do much as the fuel consumption would still be the same (since it won't be forced inducted) so you'll just be spending your money wastefully. Why not just get an Underdrive Crank pulley? I recommend that over the whole kit which encompasses the Alternator and other utilities by which the kit could cause problems electrical wise.

You could also get some camshaft pulleys (You'll need a dynamometer) and fiddle around until you get some more power and torque out of the valve timing.

For the Headers as you inquired, DC sports makes a Stainless Steel header unit for your car and if something is correct Stainless Steel is the best choice for getting rid of Heat down the exhaust pipe instead of soaking in the engine bay. Though it is a 4-2-1 Header and is not as good as a 4-1 in the sense that your engine is a high revving one and a 4-1 is...well better for such. But it only comes in Ceramic, so in a compromise less heat is better than a minimal gain down the road.

For the exhaust system Magnaflow makes a Cat-back that is also Stainless steel and retails for about 500 bucks. The Apex'i is a bit loud and a loud Accord just asks for a beating from somebody in my book.

I don't think Throttle body spacers make any power. I always thought that they were used for people who didn't want to pull out the die grinder when they bought an aftermarket one.

Hope that helps...  

what I meant to say about the cat is that I got a high flow OBX one they said it was the equivalent to a straight pipe. i would like to get a 4-1 header but haven't been able to find one. the market for car tuning in Idaho is kinda non existent pickups yes cars no.  

also I would throw a turbo on it but I have read that the f22 can't handle much boost and that it would be a total waste  

Heat is the true enemy of power so I'd just stick with the 4-2-1 Stainless Steel, plus it'll never rust or deteriorate by engine or road vibration like a ceramic (though it would take years). Hey I live in New Mexico! You thought you had it rough? How bout a bunch of idiots with 215hp 5.0 mustangs running around thinking they got 400hp with no maintenance?! (by that I mean my old class-mate buddies...tards...)

On the turbo... If done properly you'll save 25% more gas (if driven out of boost) and you'll get 75% more power. Its only when you crank up the boost that things change...

Here's the formula to calibrate your engine to a Turbo:

first you find the PCO (or how much boost)


PCO = (how much boost you run) + 14.7 + 1.5 = X


Then from there you find Intake Density: (this is the second time I've written it.)


Di(Intake air density) =  boost pressure+ atmospheric pressure
_______________________________________________________

R (a gas law = 53.3) x 12 x (460 [degrees rankin] + intake temp)


From that we get the mass flow rate:


*Mf = Di x displacement(inches) x (RPM/2) x Volumetric efficiency


and then the correct mass flow:


Mf x the square root of the compressor inlet temp. / 545
_____________________________________________________

atmospheric pressure/ Mass flow rate*


You'll also need colder spark plugs and retard the timing a bit. Some turbo kits come available with an efficiency Island map. Try to keep it near the highest efficiency island. And also keep the boost to a moderate if you're looking for all out power, your engine could be Open Deck like most Hondas.  

That and enrichen it a bit, but I forgot the formula for Lbs/min of fuel per Hp or was it cc/min?  

Ahh crap! I write all of that and he leaves?! Screw it.... off to Youtube and the funny zoo animals...  

So the f22 is capable of handling a turbo, i WOULD PREFER GOING THAT ROUTE BUT i REALLY DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO BEEF UP THE INTERNALS TO RUN A TURBO, is an Intercooler a must for the turbo or would I even be able to run enough boost to make it worth while  

The question still stands as "If", but with a few number crunshings and a trip for a spunky new fancy calculator some questions can be answered. You don't have to reinforce the internals as long as you take the necessary precautions (an Intercooler counts as one of them), and don't go overboard like over boosting it. For simple street power 7psi should suffice, which is safe in most peoples book. Sure it's not the "Whoa!" power you'd get out of the 20psi that a SR20DET engine could handle, but at around 180-200hp (theoretically not actually) that's not bad and would still be a good daily driver.  

Off course Dished pistons could help allot and some reinforcement to the engine never hurts, but as stated as a daily driver, moderation is key here not maximum Horsepower. I'm assuming here that your Accord is Standard if otherwise then please discard the Turbo option and possibly the Headers too (unless stated by the manufacturer that it fits A/T). The tranny would slip and since the ECU is connected to the Tranny and the Turbo ECU tells the sensors that everything is fine it could cause some drivability issues down the road and it would be just horrible...

Though I'll apologize and state that the Turbo Kit that I saw had a footnote saying "F23" engine not the F22. I'm not a Honda Expert so I'll say that, just leave the Turbo option for later once all loose ends have been addressed.

In the end I recommend the bolt-ons for now.. Its your daily driver. You can't just go and mess up with the things that make it so. The stainless steel parts and maybe a Vented Carbon Fiber Hood from SEIBON plus some of the other parts I mentioned could just suffice. I'll repeat once more "Heat is the enemy of power" so a cooler engine is a faster engine...  

actually it is the A/T and I found that these have problems especially in my year. I also didn't think the A/t could handle the turbo. What bolt ons would you suggest for me. A turbo is out of the question if it would give me tranny problems. If there was a way to mate it to a standard tranny easily or to run the turbo on the auto I think it would be worth it but if It would screw the car in the long run definitely not worth it. I would be interested in an engine swap as well. It is only my commuter I own a pickup for work that I drive when I'm not to far from home.  

I guess my question now is where should I go for the bolt ons.  

If you want to know where to buy, you're going to have to go online. Check out hopupracing.com. I've ordered a few parts off of them for my old car.